It’s one of those features of a novel that you might not pay much attention to unless you’re thinking about it or unless the author deliberately draws your attention to it. But it’s an important aspect of characterisation. I’m talking about clothes – about the way characters dress. Clothes can give a lot of information about characters, such as their professions, their tastes, their basic attitude toward life and their generation. That makes clothes a really effective way to show not tell what a character is like. Clothes don’t always play a key role in solving a mystery (although there are stories where they do), but they do help readers get a sense of character, setting and context.
Consider Agatha Christie’s Hercule Poirot. Christie fans know that Poirot is very conscious of what he wears. He prefers the dandified look, right down to pointed patent leather shoes that are uncomfortable at times. But as he tells his friend Ariadne Oliver in Hallowe’en Party,
‘Madame, I like to look soigné in my appearance.’
And he does. Poirot’s preference for extreme elegance in his dress makes a lot of sense given his personality. He is compulsive about neatness but at the same time attracted to the flamboyant. So it makes a lot of sense that his clothes are nearly always top-of-the-line in terms of their elegance. They tell readers about his character without the need for Christie to use a lot of verbiage to let readers know what he’s like.
Anthony Bidulka’s Saskatoon PI Russell Quant has a different view of choosing clothes. He certainly doesn’t mind looking nice but his taste and budget don’t run to really upmarket, trendy clothes. He prefers his wonderpants, a pair of easy-care black pants that never wrinkle, are just right for nearly all occasions and flatter him. His mentor Anthony Gatt though has different ideas. Gatt is a very successful clothier who’s always picking out new, elegant stylish looks for his protégé. In fact that’s a running joke in the Quant series since Quant himself sees nothing wrong with the way he dresses. And the truth is his way of dressing very much suits his personality. It’s not that he’s a slob – far from it. But at the same time he’s a casual person who doesn’t like a lot of fuss about his wardrobe. Quant’s taste is a good match for his lifestyle too. He travels quite a lot as a PI and as part of his personal life. So a basic serviceable wardrobe that also looks nice makes a lot of sense for him. Bidulka shows us a lot about Quant’s way of looking at the world through the way he dresses.
The same is true of Kerry Greenwood’s Corinna Chapman. She’s a baker who starts her days very early so she can make the dough for the day’s bread, rolls and muffins. She’s also a non-nonsense casual person who doesn’t go in much for pretense. At all. Here, for instance is how Chapman describes her ‘baking uniform’ in Devil’s Food:
‘I…dragged on some tracksuit pants in size Extremely Huge and a top in Forget It No Human Is This Big, my very own sizes.’
Dressing that way makes sense given what Chapman does for a living and it shows the reader what kind of person she is: down-to-earth, pragmatic and not overly fussy. Of course, she also spends time in the shop where the customers are. When she’s there, Chapman usually chooses simple blouses and trousers and that taste suits her very well. Chapman’s choice of clothing doesn’t solve mysteries, but it adds to her character and gives the reader a solid portrait of her.
Robert Crais’ sleuths Elvis Cole and Joe Pike also reflect their personalities and lifestyles in the way they dress. Cole is offbeat, quirky and sometimes mischievous. He’s got a child’s goofy sense of humour and isn’t at all bothered by convention. Here for instance is the way he dresses to meet famous Hollywood director Peter Alan Nelson in Lullaby Town:
‘I was wearing a white Mickey Mouse sweatshirt with a mustard spot high on the right shoulder. Mickey would be okay but the mustard spot was definitely unacceptable. Did I have time to race home for the tux? I looked at the Pinocchio clock. Unh-unh. I took off the Mickey and put on a yellow and white Hawaiian beachcomber’s shirt, a Dan Wesson .38 caliber revolver and light blue waiter’s jacket. Dress for success.’
Only Elvis Cole could carry something like that off… His sleuthing partner Joe Pike is quite a different character and his dress shows it. He’s enigmatic and says little, but he is utterly fearless. He’s a former mercenary and Special Forces member who owns a gun shop and is a gun aficionado. In The Monkey’s Raincoat Crais introduces us to Pike’s ‘uniform.’
‘…faded Levis’, blue Nikes, white sweat socks, steel Rolex, sleeveless sweat shirt.’
And guns, at least a couple of them, are also an essential part of Pike’s apparel. So are sunglasses. For these two characters Crais uses the way they dress and the contrasts between those styles to really show the readers what their characters are like.
We also see how clothing can be used to add to a character and show quite a lot in Åsa Larsson’s series featuring attorney Rebecka Martinsson and police inspector Anna-Maria Mella. When the series begins, Martinsson lives and works in Stockholm. In the course of the novels though, she moves back to her Norrland home town of Kiruna. As time goes by Martinsson re-establishes herself in Kiruna, but sometimes her profession and her years of living in Stockholm still come through in the way she dresses. In Until Thy Wrath be Past for instance, she goes along with Mella to interview a local resident who found the body of seventeen-year-old Wilma Persson. Here’s Mella’s private thought about the way Martinsson is dressed:
‘Perhaps it had been a mistake, bringing her along. Martinsson’s appearance seemed too elegant somehow. It would be easy to peg her for a slick Stockholm lawyer.’
It’s interesting though to see how Martinsson slowly stops wearing her Stockholm wardrobe and adopts a look that’s more like the locals’ look as she spends more time there. It’s one way in which Larsson shows us how Martinsson begins to feel that she really belongs in Kiruna.
There are a lot of other examples too of the way in which authors use clothes to show what characters are like and give the reader some background. Space doesn’t permit me to mention them all. Besides, it’s time for me to decide what I’m going to wear today…
Oh, but don’t worry. There’s plenty more about clothes in crime fiction out there. You’ll want to be sure to pay a visit to the very excellent Clothes in Books, which is the place to go for well-written reviews and a thoughtful and interesting look at what fashion in fiction tells us about characters. Go ‘head – check it out!
*NOTE: The title of this post is a line from Billy Joel’s It’s Still Rock and Roll to Me.













I completely agree that the clothes a character wears can really bring them to life. There’s a hilarious blog called ‘What Claudia Wore’ where somebody posts/sometimes recreates terrible 90s outfits described vividly in The Babysitter’s Club books. It’s funny because I remember reading those books as a youngster and thinking that these girls must surely be the height of fashion!
Marie – Oh, that sounds like a truly funny blog!! Thanks for sharing it. I’ll definitely have to check it out. It’s so funny to look back at fashions people used to think were cutting edge and to see them now in – er – a different light.
Hey, thank you for the shoutout! I was really enjoying your article (as ever), thinking it was right up my street, and there were your nice comments. You are a star! Plus some great ideas for me….
Moira – Oh, my great pleasure! I really like your approach to looking at crime fiction – so innovative and informed. And you’ve given me lots to think about too.
You’re definitely right that it’s not something I’d necessarily notice as I read a mystery, but how else could I have such a solid idea of how Miss Marple, Hercule Poirot, Nero Wolfe, dress? Oddly enough, I thought first of the older sleuths rather than some of the ones I’m reading about today.
Pat – Now, that’s an interesting point. Sometimes we really do get a very clear picture of the classic and Golden Age sleuths, but not as clear a picture of some of the more modern sleuths. Hmmm….that’s worth thinking about, so thanks.
Margot: If you look around for photos of Anthony Bidulka you are quite likely to find him wearing a pair of bright orange pants.
Of sleuths your mention of Russell Quant’s wonderpants brings to mind Kinsey Milhone’s all purpose little black dress of some equally wondrous material.
Patricia’s mention brought to mind the image of Stout wearing his suit, covered by apron, while working with his orchids during the day. Every night he retired in his bright yellow pyjamas.
Bill – I know what you mean about that really clear image of those yellow pyjamas and that orchid-tending apron. It’s interesting how those touches can make an indelible impression.
Thanks too for mentioning Kinsey Millhone’s little black dress. It is a staple in her wardrobe and adds to her character. I’d planned to include it in this post too and simply didn’t, so I’m glad you filled in that gap.
As as for orange pants, somehow I’m not surprised Bidulka would wear them. As the expression goes, on him, they work.
My current obsession is the Alan Banks series, and I love how he and Annie Carbot dress (particularly like her ankle band).
Yes, you are right, you can tell so much about a person from the way they dress- though I wonder what it says about me
Another really great post, Margot.
Natasha – Thank you
– I’m so glad you’re enjoying the Alan Banks series. I really do think it’s so well-written and I like Annie Cabot’s ankle band too. It’s almost like her personal signature and that’s what I think clothes can be. They really do say things about people. Hmm…maybe I should re-think my own wardrobe…
Very perceptive. It takes a clever author to weave descriptions in of clothes, I think, so that the narrative flows smoothly. Like you say, they can really say something about the character’s personality without having to spell it out. One of my pet hates, though, is a list of what a character is wearing that doesn’t really add anything. Especially with brand names. I like it when they’re used to create a massive reveal too – the sweatshirt in The Killing for instance. My jaw literally hit the floor!
Alison – Thank you
– You know, I hadn’t thought about it but you’re right. It can be annoying when the author simply lists items of clothing and brand names without it adding anything to the story or the character. To me that sort of defeats the purpose of show not tell. You also make a good point about how clothes can provide clues or a reveal. That famous sweatshirt is such a good example of that! At some point maybe I’ll do a post on just that point; it’s really interesting!
Thanks for the link to the Clothes in Books blog–I hadn’t run across that! I’m trying to put more thought and character insights into how my characters dress…hard for me, since I care little about clothes…
Elizabeth – I hope you’ll like Clothes in Books. It really is a good blog. And I know what you mean about considering how characters dress. I have to keep that in mind too. Now, I happen to like the way your Memphis Barbecue character Cherry Hayes dresses. So flamboyant and individual and a nice contrast to your Lulu Taylor’s floral print dresses.
Clothes can definitely make a character. I love the descriptions of Poirot, Wimsey etc from classic crime books. I don’t know what sidewinders are mind you.
Sarah – From my understanding, sidewinders can be a certain kind of trainer or a certain kind of dancing shoe. I’ve also seen that name used for slip-ons such as Vans makes. And I agree completely: Sayers and Christie both give great descriptions of their sleuths don’t they?
This is something that needs skillful hands. I really dislike it when an author spends a paragraph describing a character physically-unless it is something I need to know. I prefer to imagine them myself. Of course, if it is essential to the plot for me to know he has a beard and wears a monocle, that’s okay then. But otherwise it feels like the writer is trying to get their own character into their head. Long physical descriptions seemed more prevalent fifty years ago then now.
Patti – You’ve got such a good point about belaboured character descriptions, and that includes their clothing. I think you’re probably right that there is less of that now than there was, but it’s still there. There are ways to let readers know what characters are like without paragraphs of description and like you, I prefer that kind of subtlety.
Margot – this is so interesting. I have to say it really took me by surprise the first few times people asked me about Russell Quant’s wonderpants. Now I expect it. In almost every audience there is someone who wants to talk about them – or their own version of wonderpants – which really can be very different for different people. It’s all about how they make you feel.
Anthony – You put that really well. That’s the thing about clothes, whether they’re wonderpants or not. It really is about how clothes make you feel. And I’m not at all surprised you get asked about the wonderpants actually. They are part of Quant’s character – they’re a reflection of it. And I think that’s another thing about clothes. They reflect who we are and that’s one reason they can add to a story.
I’m surprised you didn’t mention Spenser, from the Robert Parker series. Spenser always talks about what he and the people around him are wearing. Parker clearly had an eye for clothing.
Aubrey – Thank you very much for filling in the ‘Spenser’ gap. Right you are indeed that he does notice clothing!